Whilst we have all completed our first year at Reading University together, taking different modules, living in different halls and being part of different societies meant that many of us did not really know one another before arriving in Crete. A week spent working and socialising as a group has led to friendships which will last not only for the rest of our time at Reading but hopefully long into the future.

Completing the fieldwork over the week required team work at its very best. Being a group of just four we all seemed to take on specific roles in order to complete the work – Claire on camera and clinometer,  Emily chief scribe keeping field diary notes up to date, Kirsty on measuring and Will, being the only male member of the team, bravely climbed on boulders to measure lichen, and was always on hand at photograph time with his cheesy smile and thumbs up!

On a serious note working together enabled us to share ideas; we all have different strengths and capabilities and we tried to exploit peoples strong points in order to gain the most from the week.

As well an the skills gained in patience, listening to one another and sharing ideas we were at times also physically challenged. Firstly working in such high temperatures can be tiring and lead to short tempers. Staying calm and positive was really important.

The walk up Ilingas Gorge on our first day was exhausting, but having taken the necessary measurements when we finally reached the bottom of the gorge we all felt a real sense of achievement. Similarly the walk from Loutro to Chora Sfakion was nerve racking at times. The narrow path along which we walked dropped away to the sea below and it was important here to set your pace by the slowest member in the group, and to make sure that everyone was comfortable with the walk.

We have all learnt practical skills which will be of huge benefit throughout the rest of our degree and into our future careers. Learning how to use Word Press in order to make a blog each day, marking waypoints and taking readings using a G.P.S. receiver and measuring slope angle using a clinometer were all skills acquired during the field class.

Inevitably technology has its moments and working around these problems was a key part of the week. Limited battery life on the portable notebook computers, sharing a slow internet connection which caused programmes to crash were problems encountered. Learning to work through these issues though brought us closer together as a group; and when after four and a half hours our video finally uploaded on You Tube it was a moment to celebrate…cue the double thumbs up from Will!

All in all we have learnt that when working in a team the most important skills are:

Communication – listen to one another and share your ideas

Reliability – get involved and contribute

Enthusiasm – be energetic and positive about the work

Try – everyone should try their best and put in 100% to the work

Equality – give everyone equal opportunity to be involved

Chania is the second largest city on the island of Crete and is located on the north coast, 72 km from Chora Sfakion. Chania is known for its Venetian harbour around which restaurants and cafes cluster on the waterfront.

Narrow side streets are packed with small shops selling a range of local products; soaps, olive oil, handmade jewellery and clothing. In addition the expected touristy products; sunglasses, flip flops, items for the beach and postcards are also found. Although many of the shops contained very similar items and its hard to understand how they can all survive and compete with one another, some shops were found selling some very distinctive products. For example, as the photograph below shows one shop sold some amazing hairclips- we particularly like the colouring pencil clip and the kit kat!

The side streets which are bustling with people are packed full of history and the architecture of some of the buildings demonstrates this. However, it is clear that Chania, unlike the currently isolated villages visited during the week, has been affected by the process of globalisation. The Starbucks franchise in the central square of the old town was an unexpected sight. Shoppers were also seen carrying bags from well known high street retailers including Zara. Street sellers with balloons and a horse and cart taking tourists around Chania were also witnessed.

The busy environment was a shock to the system and we were targeted by waiters desperate for us to spend our money at their establishment. Menus were wafted under our faces, free drinks and meal deals were offered. This sales technique was overwhelming and quite off putting after the relaxed way of life we had become used to.

The tourists in Chania we noted were a far more diverse group than those seen in the south of the island, where we spent the week. There were a lot more children and many of the tourists were wearing all inclusive wrist bands. The line of Thomas Cook coaches lead us to conclude that a large number of tourists are in the area as part of a tour, on a package holiday.

Witnessing people begging on the street, both women and children, was a sad sight and reminded us that whilst this area may appear successful and busy there are people who remain without. As we travelled by coach towards the airport, and thus away from the old town the suburbs were rundown. Evidence of this being graffiti, buildings in disrepair and far fewer people.

Having the opportunity to spend time in Chania and to experience the place where so many residents from Loutro and Agia Roumelli spend the winter was interesting. In the tourist season the place is buzzing and it would be of interest to see how Chania changes out of the tourist season.

When we made the descent down Ilingas Gorge and during the walk from Loutro to Chora Sfakion, sites of particular interest were logged on the G.P.S. receiver as way points. For each site the longitude, latitude and elevation of the site were recorded, as well as a brief description about the site in our field notebooks. Appropriate photographs were taken and diagrams of the landscape were also drawn for reference.

We chose to complete as much work as possible in the morning, so we could chill out a bit more this afternoon and evening. This work included finishing blogs, inputting a last bit of data into Google Earth, completing our video and interviewing the last few people we wanted to chat to in the village.

It was really interesting that the owner of the local cake shop continued the theme of other locals in wanting more tourists to visit Chora Sfakion. She believes the improvements to both the road into the village and the boardwalk that runs adjacent to the beach will begin to encourage this, as access to Chora Sfakion is now much easier.

As we walked up towards the new hotel, called Hotel Notos, we noticed it was cloudy and raining high up in the mountains behind the village. This was a little worrying as a 15 year returning tourist that we had spoken to in Loutro earlier in the week, had told us a story of how Chora Sfakion had been flooded in a similar event a few years previously. Hopefully our wellington boots will not be needed!

In comparison, in the harbour area of the village the sun was shining as strong as ever.

After a traditional lunch of olives, stuffed aubergines and saganaki (fried feta cheese), we headed to the beach to record the necessary footage to complete our blockbuster film. Oscar nominations will definitely be heading our way, particularly in the stunning Venus scene for the sexiness of Will’s hairy legs!

We are all really looking forward to the whole group meal this evening at Hotel Livikon. It will be lovely to have the opportunity to reminisce on all the memories we have shared this week and the friends we have made.

Kirsty – I’ve had a really good time here in Chora Sfakion. Just as I expected the village was simply a base for tourists to catch the ferry to Loutro and the Samaria Gorge, rather than a specific tourist destination. However the opportunity for a simple holiday, with traditional food, gorgeous weather and a pretty harbour village is the main reason tourists visit this area, as well as to view the natural landscape. A sandy beach wouldn’t go a miss though! Hot pebbles hurt!!

Will – I have thoroughly enjoyed my time in Chora Sfakion. I have enjoyed sampling the local cuisine and getting a sense of Greek culture in this most remote of locations. The weather has been scorching, and as a typical British tourist I have got burnt to a cinder. The major problem with the area is the conflicting interests concerning tourism. On the one hand the area is popular to tourists due to its seclusion and remoteness in relation to the more main stream resorts in the north of Crete. However this also means that it is going to be very difficult to expand the tourism in the area as it’s quaintness is what makes it so attractive to visitors.

Emily- Never having been to Crete before I have enjoyed experiencing the isolation which this currently unspoilt part of the world has to offer. I have begun to appreciate that the village of Chora Sfakion’s development, in terms of a growth in tourism, is hindered by the fact that it is currently used simply as a place people pass through, on the way to the more popular tourist areas of Samaria Gorge and Loutro. Having read Trudgill’s ‘In Sfakia’ prior to arriving I was expecting the landscape to be drier than it is. I have been pleasantly surprised by the amount of vegetation. It would be interesting to return in 5 years time and see how this small village, with only a few hundred inhabitants has changed; or whether it will continue to remain as a secluded spot seemingly stuck in time. 

Ilingas Beach

At quarter past ten all groups met at Ilingas beach, located at the bottom of Ilingas gorge at latitude 35.2 and longitude 24.12. At this point the temperature was recorded to be 28.8 degrees centigrade with no visible cloud cover and a calm wind.

After making our way up the gorge with several much needed rest breaks, at an elevation of 210m, we began our observations. We made observations in order to later calculate the peak discharge of flow during the flood that occurred in December 2000.

Waypoint A

At the first site Waypoint A, as recorded on the GPS receiver we were at a longitude of 35.21 (to 2dp) and a latitude of 24.13 (to 2dp). At this point the temperature was recorded to be a very warm 32.1 degrees. This site was occupied by large boulders where we found smaller pieces of rock debris on top, believed to be transported during the flood. Past flood activity was also indicated by the tree wedged firmly in one of the large boulders. The lower half of the surviving tree was identified as having its bark stripped due to the erosive force of the water. At this point the average bed material was estimated at 12cm, however this there was great variety in the size of bed material along the gorge.

Team member Will then bravely ascended the rock face in order to measure the size of lichen identified on the gorge sides, this being an indication of the height of the water during the flood.

Waypoint B

The second site was reached at 13:35 at an elevation of 201m. Longitude here was recorded at 35.21 degrees (to 2dp), and a latitude of 24.13 degrees (to 2dp). The temperature here reached its hottest at a mighty 42.8 degrees when in sunlight. The most distinguishing feature of this site was the uprooted trees, which due to the erosive force of the flood were now found to lie on the gorge floor.

At this point the bed material was loose and unsorted – ranging in size from gravel to larger rocks. The slopes of the gorge were covered in trees and small shrubs (thyme and orgagano). At this point average bed material was estimated at being 15cm. There was also evidence of severe undercutting at this site.

Waypoint C

At an elevation of 196m and a longitude of 35.21 (to 2dp) and a latitude of 24.13 (to 2dp).

Specific evidence of the flood was recorded however due to the close proximity to Waypoint B specific measurements were not recorded. Of most significance at this site was a tree, which when measured had its bark removed to a height of 3m 10cm. Rock was also identified caught between the trees believed due to the power of the flood. As expected deposition was found on the inside of the gorge where the velocity will have been at its lowest. On the outside bend erosion into the gorge sides occurred.

Waypoint D

Down slope at an elevation of 177m, which our hard working group reached at 14:18, the gorge narrowed significantly. The longitude at this site was 35.21 (to 2dp) and latitude 24.13 (to 2dp). Due to the narrowing of the gorge at this point discharge is believed to have increased due to the constriction on the flow. Evidence of this is shown by the stump of the tree being left in the gorge floor, but the rest of the tree had been removed. Bed material on the whole at this point was smaller, the average size being 7cm. Lichen was identified on the walls of the gorge being 5cm in length and 3cm wide.  As documented by Maas and Macklin (2002), the larger the size of the lichen the longer ago the flood occurred. Lower down at this point on the gorge the rock was of a darker colour and this was believed to indicate the height of the flood water.

Waypoint E

This site was reached at 15:00 and the temperate had cooled to a slightly more pleasant 33.1 degrees. Elevation at this site was 129m and longitude was recorded to be 35.21 degrees (to 2dp) and  latitude 24.13 degrees (to 2dp). Here the gorge had widened and of particular significance was the hollows eroded into the sides of the gorge to a height of approximately 5m above the gorge floor. Bed material at this site was unsorted and of variety of sizes with an estimated average of 9cm. Vegetation cover was found to have increased from Waypoint D and wildflowers dominated.

Waypoint F

Located at 108m above sea level the longitude at this site was 35.21 degrees (to 2dp) and a latitude of 24.13 degrees (to 2dp).

Evidence of flooding at this point was clear by the trees whose bark had been stripped and which had boulders pushed into their trunks. The increased presence of vegetation in this area indicates that possibly the flood water was less destructive here.

Waypoint G

At an elevation of 88m and a longitude of 35.21 degrees (to 2dp) and a latitude of 24.13 degrees (to 2dp).

This site was characterised by steep cliffs with undercutting on the outside of the bend where velocity was greatest. At this site there was evidence of a man made path and there was an increase in vegetation. An artificial channel with sides 2m in height had been constructed and we believe that this is in order to constrain the flow – protecting the outer channel from further erosion.

Final Site

This site could not be marked as a waypoint due to a lack of signal. The site was the man made bridge which forms the entrance to Ilingas beach. This site was reached at 15:45. At this point land elevation was 37m.

Using the data collected by the group during our walk down the gorge we will be able to calculate the peak discharge of the flood water using the Mannings n equation. This will form the basis of our independent reports on the flood event and its affect on the Ilingas Gorge area.

A determined Will and Emily kept up team morale and accompanied by Kirsty headed by ferry to Agia Roumeli. The journey took about an hour passing through Loutro where we witnessed tradesmen unloading produce.

Upon arrival in Agia Roumeli we headed straight for Samaria Gorge in order to investigate how this gorge is such a special environment to both tourists and nature. We spent time comparing the gorge, which is a national park, to Ilingas Gorge which we visited earlier in the week.

Park Management

Most noticeable were the bins provided outside the national park, a facility which has been absent from other areas we have visited. In line with management policies the bins were made out of wood.

In stark contrast to Ilingas Gorge the area has a number of maps and information points, as well as regulations regarding the conduct of visitors to the gorge. According to a member of park staff the gorge receives an average of 1000 visitors a day during the season. Therefore this area is geared solely towards tourists. When we walked the Ilingas Gorge we didn’t see a single other person. Providing for tourists had been carried out sympathetically with bridges being made of wood in keeping with the environment. The only eye sore on the landscape, and which was commented by the tourists, was the water pipe and the electricity cables crossing the ravine throughout the walk to the Iron Gates.

One of the main differences between the two gorges we have studied was that Samaria Gorge has a permanent ravine flowing through it throughout the year. Ilingas Gorge appears to have formed during storms when the erosive action of water has been particularly high. It is basically a dry channel until it floods.  It is clear that during winter months in Samaria Gorge the channel flow is much wider.

We reached the Iron Gates at lunch time, as described by Trudgill (2008) this part of the gorge is a spectacular feature where the ravine narrows to a width of about 10ft. After enjoying the views down the gorge and seizing the opportunity to speak to the tourists making their decent we began our return to the village.

Excitement grew when Will exclaimed that he had spotted some Lichen! Not just any Lichen, it was 10cmx10cm!

Arriving in Agia Roumelli we followed the rest of the tourists taking sanctuary from the heat in a taverna. We gathered our thoughts and then spent the afternoon talking to local business owners and tourists. We did struggle with a number of these interviews, not only due to the language barrier but also as many as the hotel owners also ran tavernas and were busy serving customers.

Unlike Chora Sfakion and Loutro Agia Roumeli is an open coastline not an enclosed bay. Therefore the tavernas are not directly on the seafront but further back behind the beach. Agia Roumeli did not have the community feel of Chora Sfakion and Loutro, instead there was a much greater feeling of competition between the businesses.

Having taken the ferry back from Agia Roumeli, which was packed with tourists, we began to appreciate the full extent of how Chora Sfakion functions purely as a car park for the tourists that visit the Samaria Gorge every day.

We made the most of the opportunity to sit and relax on the beach in the bay at Chora Sfakion and to enjoy the reasonably warm water for the occasional quick swim. The peace was disturbed mid afternoon, when diners taking a late lunch at the Dolphin Restaurant made their escape as the kitchens went up in smoke. As the video footage below illustrates the fire took hold very quickly.

Fire at Dolphin taverna

We spent time following the fire reflecting on the impact of this event on the business, which depends so much on an income from tourism. Just a few hours later builders were already in the restaurant making the necessary repairs. At the start of the tourist season it is essential for this restaurant to open quickly.

Once the village had calmed down following the events of the fire Emily headed up the steps which the tourists take to reach their coaches having visited Samaria Gorge. At the top of these steps was a World War Two War memorial. The memorial had been left by the New Zealand veterans in memory of the Sfakian’s who had lost their lives protecting them.

The views from the top of the hill overlooking Chora Sfakion were spectacular. The sky was perfectly clear enabling you to see across to Loutro in the distance.  In the other direction it was possible to see a shrine which could be reached by a steep climb up hill along a white path carving its way through the landscape. We wonder whether this shrine may be attached to a small church. The area has a large number of small churches, which as documented by Trudgill (2008) are often only open on the name day of the particular saint the church represents. Also of interest at the top of the hill is a pipe which transports water for the village to use.

Standing on top of the hill and overlooking the village of Chora Sfakion enabled us to appreciate just how small this village is in comparison to the dramatic landscape in which it sits.

Following an evening meal at the Three Brothers taverna we were entertained outside hotel Livikon, where we are staying, by a local man playing traditional Greek music. A perfect end to a relaxing day.

Description from route as shown on Google Earth of route taken from Loutro to Chora Sfakion.